Day 2

Today changes everything. We were fortunate enough to take a cultural tour of the townships with our guide Lodomo. He taught us Xhosa words for “hello” and “thank you.” By the way Xhosa is pronounced as click – osa. The click is generated by popping the tongue off the roof of the mouth. Lodomo began our tour by taking us to the District 6 museum. The people who lived in the integrated District 6 were forcibly removed to segregated townships during the Apartheid Era. The museum had some amazing before and after photos of the district. In the museum there is also a large floor map of the district. Some of the families have written their names and addresses on the map. Others have drawn in playing fields, theaters, etc., all of the things that make a community. Additionally the museum is host to a large fabric banner where people are writing portions of their stories. They then embroider over the writing so that the memories will never fade.
Our first stop was the township of Langa. At first glance the poverty and hopelessness was overwhelming. Then we arrived at an arts center where community leaders are training others in an art/craft that can provide them with an opportunity to start a business. We really liked the sustainability of the program. We spent time with the pottery makers then dropped off some of the books we had brought with a band/chorus group of children.
Next stop in Langa was a school. We visited with the 4-5 year olds. They sang a number of songs including the most moving version of any National Anthem we had ever experienced. When they finished singing and dancing we presented them with some of the books that we had. The delight of the children who received books was overwhelming and as news of the donation spread more children flooded into the school. When we ran out of children’s books, their disappointment was heartwrenching. We all wished we could do more for the children.
As saddening as the conditions of the homes and businesses in Langa were, the outskirts where the illegal settlements are set was truly dismal. These were pieced together from old pallets, corrugated steel and whatever other material could be scrounged together. The people in this area had left the country for the promise of greater opportunity in the city. So many stayed that we can only imagine what conditions were like in the country.
From Langa we drove on through several other townships, segregated originally by law, these communities remain segregated by economics and customs. It seems that despite the days when these cultures freely intermingled in District 6, there are strong feelings about leaving one’s cultural neighborhood. In fact even those who are able to move out of the townships, return on weekends for the social and cultural traditions.
Our last stop was in the township of Khayelitsha. There we were invited in to a Bed and Breakfast. That’s right, people pay to stay overnight in the townships. In fact though Vicky’s was one of the first, she now helps other women who have started their own B&B’s. The amazing thing is that there is now a thriving craft market nearby along with a restaurant/shebeen and the woman behind Vicky has turned her home into a preschool during the day. Her business employs four teachers and educates 50 children. She has taken some early childhood education classes and is in the process of arranging for her teachers to take them as well. The room is well organized and divided into learning centers. The daily routine includes breakfast and lunch. The parents pay about 50 Rand a month – less than $10, but there are many who cannot afford even that. The school whose name translates to “Look to the Future” is also remarkable because unlike some of the other preschools, they accept children regardless of their HIV/AIDS status. The owner fully understands that the children of the township are the future of South Africa and she is determined to give them the strongest start she can provide. All this and they cannot be licensed by the state because the space is too small. They are in the process of adding an addition so that the daycare can become fully licensed and receive some government money toward the cost of food and materials. Though we had only middle level readers left she gratefully accepted them.
One cannot help but remember the story of the little girl on the beach throwing the starfish back into the sea one by one. We had been looking at the story of South Africa as another retelling of evil individuals setting in motion a system that destroys all in its path. Once again we find ourselves in awe of inspirational individuals who remain undaunted by the power of the situation. We all left feeling a deep need to join them in their struggle.